The Best Cica Products (For Soothing Skin)
THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF PRODUCTS TO CHOOSE FROM THE SHELVES OF OUR FAVOURITE BEAUTY STORES, SO WHEN THE CHOICE IS OVERWHELMING, WHICH ONES MAKE THE CUT? EACH WEEK I SEEK OUT THE BEST BEAUTY BUYS FOR EVERY CATEGORY OF THE BEAUTY WORLD - BECAUSE IF YOU’RE ANYTHING LIKE ME, YOU NEED A SHORTLIST FIRST. EXPECT EVERY SUNDAY TO BRING AN EDIT OF THE BEST PRODUCTS MONEY CAN BUY, SO YOU GUYS CAN MAKE AN INFORMED PURCHASE WITHOUT THE HOURS OF INTERNET STALKING.
I know an ingredient is about to blow up when I start getting multiple Instagram DMs asking for product recommendations. “Have you tried the Elemis one?”…“What’s the difference between the drops and the cream”…. “Will it help my acne scars?”… And off I trot to do my research.
Yes, cica is coming, which means we’re about to see it everywhere in the world of skincare. Sometimes known as centella asiatica, pennywort, asiatic acid, or even just tiger grass, it is by no means a new ingredient. Originating from Asia and Africa (via the K-beauty scene), it’s been used in traditional medicine for centuries and within the last decade has even become a stalwart within many cult French pharmacy products (although you’ll rarely see it being shouted about). At present, brands like Dr Jart, La Roche-Posay, Holika Holika, and It’s Skin have some of the best offerings of cica products but I’ve no doubt that there are more on the way.
Derived from a herbaceous plant, the ingredient itself is rich in fatty acids, amino acids, vitamins, and antioxidants, all of which help to calm, hydrate, and repair skin. It’s above all a wound-healer, particularly effective in the treatment of small scars and hypertrophic wounds such as burns and psoriasis, as well as the inflammation stage of post-acne pigmentation and keloids. It works by increasing the synthesis of collagen and strengthening the newly formed skin, and its antioxidant properties help to soothe redness and inflammation, so you’ll see pretty instant results as well as long-term ones.
Through my own and my clients’ experiences, I’ve seen first hand the results that cica can have upon skin. Most significantly for those experiencing acne or post-acne pigmentation - if your skin is blemish-prone or has a compromised moisture barrier (two conditions which often come hand-in-hand) then cica will be a standout addition to your skincare routine. And likewise, if you’ve overdone it with the acids, retinol etc, cica will help to restore balance, offset dryness, and reduce sensitivity.
Elemis Superfood Cica Calm Booster, £27
Elemis tested the water last year with the launch of this booster serum, swiftly followed in 2020 with a capsule collection of cica-centric products (including a cleanser and moisturising gel, which I have yet to try). The booster contains cica and a prebiotic ferment which also has healing properties, and is designed to be used like a daily vitamin shot for the skin, so you don’t need a lot because it’s incredibly potent. You can add it to your moisturiser or just pat it straight onto your skin, as I do when in the midst of a bad acne flare-up - it miraculously reduces pain, swelling, and redness overnight.
Dr Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Camo Drops, £31
These days I don’t get as many as I used to, but breakouts still do a job on my skin. Even the short-lived and seemingly insignificant ones leave behind a red mark that takes forever to fade. This range is great for anyone with such visible redness caused by blemishes, post-acne marks, or rosacea, because it conceals as well as heals - evening out skin tone with a subtle tint of colour while the cica blend calms and soothes your complexion throughout the day (see below, also).
Dr Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Colour Correcting Treatment, £36
For anyone dealing with redness, this buttery moisturiser is basically a souped up, creamier version of the above. In fact, the two work excellently in conjunction with each other, acting as a halfway house hybrid of primer, moisturiser, SPF, and CC cream. The star ingredient is cica (impressively, it’s first in the ingredient lineup after water), but it’s blended with plenty of other hero healing ingredients, like zinc, niacinamide, and arnica.
Holika Holika Redness Calming Cica Dressing Mask, £2.95
‘The more expensive it is, the better it will be’ is a rule that most certainly does not apply to sheet masks. A case in point, this < £3 offering from K-beauty favourite, Holika Holika, which is legit the best sheet mask I’ve ever used. I nearly always recommend this to any clients who are experiencing a combination of breakouts and dehydration, and they nearly always end up bulk-buying it after trying their first one. The mask itself is made of a medical dressing type material which adheres better to the skin than most cotton-based sheet masks, and doesn’t dry up as fast either. It’s ideal for using if you are experiencing lots of breakouts or feel that you’ve compromised your skin barrier through over exfoliation - I use it weekly after my microdermabrasion tool to prevent irritation.
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5, £14
This basic fragrance-free barrier-restorer instantly soothes dry and sore skin, and protects it from future damage. A great bathroom cupboard essential for taking the edge off sore and flaky skin anywhere on the face or body - it works on scratches, burns, and blisters, too. It’s fairly thick so isn’t something I’d use everyday, but it perfect for treating sporadic and seasonal bouts of dryness or irritation. There’s also a lip balm version which I haven’t tried, but which industry insiders hail as the gold standard of SOS lip treatments.
